ok, whatever I wrote (two weeks ago today as a matter of fact) from Montevideo applies just as equally here.
I just finished attending my annual IABS conference in Tampere (two hours north of here). More info about that available at www.iabs.net
Anyway my hotel here in Helsinki makes internet available free here, but there's a 15 minute limit, so I have enough time to say it's exciting to be here and I'll post again soon. I've already been thinking about a blog on Chile v. Argentina v. Finland. Interesting stuff.
I've also expanded my Finnish vocabulary to two words.. Moi and Kiitos. (hello and thank you respectively).
Back again soon.
Monday, June 30, 2008
Sunday, June 22, 2008
Human Rights in Chile: Pedro's Story
For some time I’ve been meaning to record our meeting with Mr. Pedro Matta, a captive of the military dictatorship in Chile during the 1970s. Mr. Matta spent several hours with us; about an hour for a lecture at our hotel and then taking us on a tour of Villa Gramaldi, a torture/detention center just outside of Santiago. Two weeks later, here are my recollections of our time together.
Shortly after the 1973 coup, the military government declared itself to be “at war”. Communists, socialists, trade unions, student leaders were considered as threats and labeled as enemies. Initially the detention activities were conducted in an unsystematic fashion. This changed however in 1975 with the creation of “DINA”, a sort of military intelligence unit. At the peak of its operations DINA operated 850 detention centers throughout Chile. One of them was Villa Grimaldi. As suggested by its name Villa Gramaldi had been a very upscale property. It became the property of the government in the 1960s. The location and configuration of Villa Grimaldi made it well suited as a detention and torture center in the 1970s.
The story from here quickly becomes very grim. Pedro walked us through the grounds, describing the careful, even scientific methods of torture. The interrogators knew how far to take the torture without killing or somehow incapacitating the prisoners. Every few meters we would stop, seen the remnants of a building foundation. We might hear about how this site was used for the application of voltage (applied with various intensities, durations and to body locations) or prisoner containment areas (e.g. four prisoners in dark box about four feet in width and length). Also about twenty percent of the prisoners were women.
A comment came from our group that the personnel that participated in the operations of Villa Grimaldi (and similar torture centers) had to be “sociopathic sadists”. Pedro’s response was very telling. These people had been trained to see the detainees as “less than human” and “the enemy”. Once that thought was successfully implanted (not a difficult thing to do) the captors readily accepted the notion that the prisoners deserved this treatment.
After several hours of hearing about torture center operations in precise detail my revulsion reflux was overworked and I became numb to the vivid descriptions. Plus Pedro’s affect seemed rather flat during much his presentation. Certainly there were moments his outrage and pain came through, but almost always in a controlled way. He described himself following his release from custody as a “zombie”. Makes sense I thought, you’d have to put some major distance between yourself and these events just to survive.
At the final point of our tour, Pedro described the circumstances of his release. When the captors decided a prisoner was of no further use and there was no new information to be learned a decision was made: to release the prisoner back into society or make the “disappearance” more permanent. Fortunately for Pedro he was allowed to return home (though he sought asylum in the US and lived here for fourteen years). Upon release from a torture center most prisoners were transferred to other facilities, so at least some of the worst wounds (physical and mental) might heal.
Pedro told us that shortly after arriving at this facility he was befriended by another prisoner. “What did you tell them skinny?” the prisoner asked while offering Pedro a cigarette. Pedro was immediately suspicious and just repeated what he had already shared. “I told them everything skinny,” the prisoner continued. “When they tortured me, I told them very little. Then they brought in my wife, and tortured her in front of me. I still said nothing. Then they brought in my eight-month old child, and tortured him in front of me. At that point I told them everything. What would you do?”
At this point, Pedro’s eyes had tears. He told us early on he gave up nothing and no one during his imprisonment. “No one was tortured because of what I said. No one followed me and I can look myself in the mirror because of that” he told us. But now Pedro shook his head. “What would I have done? I had a wife; I had a baby at home. What would I have done? That question haunted me.”
This tragic set of circumstances gives us many haunting questions, about then and now. I am very grateful to Mr. Matta for sharing his story.
Shortly after the 1973 coup, the military government declared itself to be “at war”. Communists, socialists, trade unions, student leaders were considered as threats and labeled as enemies. Initially the detention activities were conducted in an unsystematic fashion. This changed however in 1975 with the creation of “DINA”, a sort of military intelligence unit. At the peak of its operations DINA operated 850 detention centers throughout Chile. One of them was Villa Grimaldi. As suggested by its name Villa Gramaldi had been a very upscale property. It became the property of the government in the 1960s. The location and configuration of Villa Grimaldi made it well suited as a detention and torture center in the 1970s.
The story from here quickly becomes very grim. Pedro walked us through the grounds, describing the careful, even scientific methods of torture. The interrogators knew how far to take the torture without killing or somehow incapacitating the prisoners. Every few meters we would stop, seen the remnants of a building foundation. We might hear about how this site was used for the application of voltage (applied with various intensities, durations and to body locations) or prisoner containment areas (e.g. four prisoners in dark box about four feet in width and length). Also about twenty percent of the prisoners were women.
A comment came from our group that the personnel that participated in the operations of Villa Grimaldi (and similar torture centers) had to be “sociopathic sadists”. Pedro’s response was very telling. These people had been trained to see the detainees as “less than human” and “the enemy”. Once that thought was successfully implanted (not a difficult thing to do) the captors readily accepted the notion that the prisoners deserved this treatment.
After several hours of hearing about torture center operations in precise detail my revulsion reflux was overworked and I became numb to the vivid descriptions. Plus Pedro’s affect seemed rather flat during much his presentation. Certainly there were moments his outrage and pain came through, but almost always in a controlled way. He described himself following his release from custody as a “zombie”. Makes sense I thought, you’d have to put some major distance between yourself and these events just to survive.
At the final point of our tour, Pedro described the circumstances of his release. When the captors decided a prisoner was of no further use and there was no new information to be learned a decision was made: to release the prisoner back into society or make the “disappearance” more permanent. Fortunately for Pedro he was allowed to return home (though he sought asylum in the US and lived here for fourteen years). Upon release from a torture center most prisoners were transferred to other facilities, so at least some of the worst wounds (physical and mental) might heal.
Pedro told us that shortly after arriving at this facility he was befriended by another prisoner. “What did you tell them skinny?” the prisoner asked while offering Pedro a cigarette. Pedro was immediately suspicious and just repeated what he had already shared. “I told them everything skinny,” the prisoner continued. “When they tortured me, I told them very little. Then they brought in my wife, and tortured her in front of me. I still said nothing. Then they brought in my eight-month old child, and tortured him in front of me. At that point I told them everything. What would you do?”
At this point, Pedro’s eyes had tears. He told us early on he gave up nothing and no one during his imprisonment. “No one was tortured because of what I said. No one followed me and I can look myself in the mirror because of that” he told us. But now Pedro shook his head. “What would I have done? I had a wife; I had a baby at home. What would I have done? That question haunted me.”
This tragic set of circumstances gives us many haunting questions, about then and now. I am very grateful to Mr. Matta for sharing his story.
South American presidents
The CIEE group met with a senator from the Argentine congress. As we discussed the future of Argentina and the South American continent, the profile of the current presidents was discussed. Here’s an overview of the presidents of the twelve nations of South America:
• Two are women
• Only one is over the age of sixty
• One is of African descent
• One is Hindi
• One is a former Catholic bishop
• Four did not wear neckties to the meeting
• Only one has military service (Chavez)
• There is one doctor, one teacher and one steelworker.
• One president had a father killed by a military dictatorship
• One president was born into to such severe poverty that four of six brothers died before the age of five.
• Two are women
• Only one is over the age of sixty
• One is of African descent
• One is Hindi
• One is a former Catholic bishop
• Four did not wear neckties to the meeting
• Only one has military service (Chavez)
• There is one doctor, one teacher and one steelworker.
• One president had a father killed by a military dictatorship
• One president was born into to such severe poverty that four of six brothers died before the age of five.
Friday, June 20, 2008
Keeping it going
Even though I'm back in the states, some unfinished business remains to be posted.
One, I need to get some more pictures up here.
Also there are a few other stories that have stayed with me and a worthy to share. I hope to get back to those soon.
In the meantime, thanks for all the nice comments, including those posted here and sent to me offline.
One, I need to get some more pictures up here.
Also there are a few other stories that have stayed with me and a worthy to share. I hope to get back to those soon.
In the meantime, thanks for all the nice comments, including those posted here and sent to me offline.
Thursday, June 19, 2008
Back home, things I'll miss and things I won't.
Back home in the USA, and there's a lot more to continue with. In the meantime I offer up the following look at what I'll miss, and won't miss, about South America.
Things I’ll miss about South America:
1. The food. The meat, the veggies, the fruits seem to be fresher and taste better.
2. The sense of joy, family, community that seems so central to their lives. It’s difficult to explain the difference, since I can easily admit these same elements are very important in the U.S. You’d just have to be here to experience how it all plays out a little differently south of the border.
3. The unique and fascinating history.
4. Art and music are more common features of life on the street.
5. The beautiful buildings, parks and public spaces.
Things I won’t miss:
1. sidewalks. There obviously isn’t enough money to keep up with al l the sidewalk repairs. Walking city streets requires an alert eye and keen sense of balance.
2. Dogs. I love dogs and there are a lot of them here. The problem is there are just too many dogs living on the streets. I found this true practically everywhere I was. I’m somewhat surprised that stray dogs are allowed to populate and roam so freely. They certainly can contribute to the garbage problem, plus they make another type of caution for walking down the sidewalk.
3. Being charged a “set up” fee, or a “bread fee” from the moment you sit down in a restaurant or café.
4. The bathrooms. I’ll put this near the bottom of the list, since overall the experience was not so bad (nothing like that opening scene in “Trainspotting”). Still more than once I went into a sort of sensory shut down just to get through it all. Yeah, we got ‘me beat on plumbing.
Things I’ll miss about South America:
1. The food. The meat, the veggies, the fruits seem to be fresher and taste better.
2. The sense of joy, family, community that seems so central to their lives. It’s difficult to explain the difference, since I can easily admit these same elements are very important in the U.S. You’d just have to be here to experience how it all plays out a little differently south of the border.
3. The unique and fascinating history.
4. Art and music are more common features of life on the street.
5. The beautiful buildings, parks and public spaces.
Things I won’t miss:
1. sidewalks. There obviously isn’t enough money to keep up with al l the sidewalk repairs. Walking city streets requires an alert eye and keen sense of balance.
2. Dogs. I love dogs and there are a lot of them here. The problem is there are just too many dogs living on the streets. I found this true practically everywhere I was. I’m somewhat surprised that stray dogs are allowed to populate and roam so freely. They certainly can contribute to the garbage problem, plus they make another type of caution for walking down the sidewalk.
3. Being charged a “set up” fee, or a “bread fee” from the moment you sit down in a restaurant or café.
4. The bathrooms. I’ll put this near the bottom of the list, since overall the experience was not so bad (nothing like that opening scene in “Trainspotting”). Still more than once I went into a sort of sensory shut down just to get through it all. Yeah, we got ‘me beat on plumbing.
Tuesday, June 17, 2008
Greetings from Uruguay
Ok, I thought it would probably take a thousand lifetimes before I ever write those words. I certainly never would have imagined one year ago I would be in beautiful Montevideo today. Another piece of evidence on the wonderful fluidity of life.
The formal piece of the CIEE program has been over for five days, so it’s back to tourist mode. I spent three more days in BsAs, came across the river to Colonia del Sacramento for a day and yesterday arrived in Montevideo. Tomorrow I begin the long sequence back to the states.
Some impresssions of Uruguay, though again I’m mindful of the limit of my own experiences. Beginning with the obvious, this is a small country wedged between two much larger countries (Brazil and Argentina). Just looking at a map you can easily conclude that Uruguay’s fortunes depend to a large extent on relations with its larger neighbors. Actually being here reinforces this conclusion.
Uruguay has an active tourist industry with many visitors coming from Argentina and Brazil. This place has two main draws: beaches and low prices. Of course today (June 17) is just a few days before the beginning of winter so that part of the economy is in a bit of a lull. Also while I've been generally pleased (from a very selfish point of view) about price levels in Chile and Argentina, we seem to come down just a little bit further when we crossed the River del Plata.
One final note for this morning, then it's time to get out and see more of this city. It has been a little crazy keeping track of money values while being in these three countries. In Chile the about 480-490 pesos equals $1. (so everything is in the thousands, tens of thousands, sometime hundreds of thousands), in Argentina the 3 peso equals a dollar (remember this is after several years when the exchange rate was fixed at 1:1), in Uruguayan peso is about 20 to 1 dollar. This means I've had to adjust to a new mental map on prices/currencies/value/etc every five days. It's been a challenge.
The formal piece of the CIEE program has been over for five days, so it’s back to tourist mode. I spent three more days in BsAs, came across the river to Colonia del Sacramento for a day and yesterday arrived in Montevideo. Tomorrow I begin the long sequence back to the states.
Some impresssions of Uruguay, though again I’m mindful of the limit of my own experiences. Beginning with the obvious, this is a small country wedged between two much larger countries (Brazil and Argentina). Just looking at a map you can easily conclude that Uruguay’s fortunes depend to a large extent on relations with its larger neighbors. Actually being here reinforces this conclusion.
Uruguay has an active tourist industry with many visitors coming from Argentina and Brazil. This place has two main draws: beaches and low prices. Of course today (June 17) is just a few days before the beginning of winter so that part of the economy is in a bit of a lull. Also while I've been generally pleased (from a very selfish point of view) about price levels in Chile and Argentina, we seem to come down just a little bit further when we crossed the River del Plata.
One final note for this morning, then it's time to get out and see more of this city. It has been a little crazy keeping track of money values while being in these three countries. In Chile the about 480-490 pesos equals $1. (so everything is in the thousands, tens of thousands, sometime hundreds of thousands), in Argentina the 3 peso equals a dollar (remember this is after several years when the exchange rate was fixed at 1:1), in Uruguayan peso is about 20 to 1 dollar. This means I've had to adjust to a new mental map on prices/currencies/value/etc every five days. It's been a challenge.
Monday, June 16, 2008
Buenos Aires. A note about soccer
Thanks to the CIEE seminar I am now familiar with a very important bit of recent Argentine history: Diego Maradona and the famous “la Mano de Dias” (“the hand of God”). During the 1986 World Cup match against England Maradona scores during a jump for the ball in front of England’s goal. Replays show that Maradona punched the ball into the goal. Yes, that’s not allowed but the refs didn’t call it. For Argentines “la Mano de Dios” symbolizes something of a national virtue to find success in sneaky ways while not being caught. (Again, so I’ve been told. I don’t want to paint this as a dishonest society, though the acceptable limits of dishonesty are probably more generous than what people are used to in the U.S.).
Later in the same match Maradona scores what is arguably one of the greatest goals ever scored in modern soccer history. The talent shown during this second goal is so impressive, I’m left thinking that a goal like that should be worth an extra score. Therefore, at least in the opinion of this very pedestrian soccer fan, Maradona’s sin for the questionable first goal is redeemed by his fantastic play on the second one.
Argentina won the match over England 2-1. Now, consider the timing. Three years earlier England badly beat the Argentine army in the Falklands war. This soccer victory was a bit of revenge for the Argentines.
Here's the second goal:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zg3uS4ZBHtM
Later in the same match Maradona scores what is arguably one of the greatest goals ever scored in modern soccer history. The talent shown during this second goal is so impressive, I’m left thinking that a goal like that should be worth an extra score. Therefore, at least in the opinion of this very pedestrian soccer fan, Maradona’s sin for the questionable first goal is redeemed by his fantastic play on the second one.
Argentina won the match over England 2-1. Now, consider the timing. Three years earlier England badly beat the Argentine army in the Falklands war. This soccer victory was a bit of revenge for the Argentines.
Here's the second goal:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zg3uS4ZBHtM
Buenos Aires: Madres de Plaza de Mayo
• Shortly after the disappearances began (1975/76) mothers would go to police stations and city offices to inquire about the status of their missing children. As these women began to encounter each other more frequently they organized themselves into the “Madres de Plaza de Mayo”.
• The original and ongoing goals for the Madres are “Truth, Memory, Justice”.
• The Madres march every Thursday, 3:30 – 4:00pm on the famous “Plaza de Mayo” in front of the presidential palace. Porteños (“the port people” or the citizens from Buenos Aires) pronounce “Mayo” as “My-zhoa”.
• The Madres have since split into two factions: the Madres de Plaza de Mayo- Linea Fundadora (“the founding line”) and the Madres de Plaza de Mayo. For simplicity let’s call the first group “LF” and the other group “Madres 2”. I’m not sure when the split occurred. The groups divided over tactics and political orientation. LF remains more concerned with honoring their missing children without advancing a particular agenda. Madres #2 are a more explicitly political movement (and not surprisingly, leftist). Madres 2 also aligns itself with organizations such trade unions. Hence, on a given Thursday there tends to be more people marching with Madres 2. For example striking workers will march with Madres 2, giving the mothers a stronger show of support, and for the strikers the support of Madres provides some extra legitimacy.
• Both Madres and Madres LF wear headscarves embroidered with the names of their children. The scarves are intended to represent diapers (and I suppose in some cases might be real cloth diapers and perhaps even in a few cases may be actual diapers worn by their children). The "diapers as scarves" symbol is intended to reinforce the on-going care the mothers provide.
• At the conclusion of every march the mothers (both groups) are usually (perhaps even always, though I hate to be so absolute) approached by journalists (print and television). The mothers are asked their opinions about a range of current affairs. Dedication to their cause has given the Madres a certain moral authority status in Argentine, even worldwide, society.
• I was introduced to one of the mothers at the end of the march. When she heard I am a professor from the US, she asked me in a very animated fashion, “Why haven’t you kicked George Bush’s butt out of your country? He is the biggest terrorist of them all”. (I’m trusting the translation here, though I doubt it’s very far off her intent).
• Just before leaving the Plaza “Tati”, one of the Madres LF leaders gave me a warm embrace, a huge smile and thanks for marching with her group. This was one of the great honors of my life.
• The original and ongoing goals for the Madres are “Truth, Memory, Justice”.
• The Madres march every Thursday, 3:30 – 4:00pm on the famous “Plaza de Mayo” in front of the presidential palace. Porteños (“the port people” or the citizens from Buenos Aires) pronounce “Mayo” as “My-zhoa”.
• The Madres have since split into two factions: the Madres de Plaza de Mayo- Linea Fundadora (“the founding line”) and the Madres de Plaza de Mayo. For simplicity let’s call the first group “LF” and the other group “Madres 2”. I’m not sure when the split occurred. The groups divided over tactics and political orientation. LF remains more concerned with honoring their missing children without advancing a particular agenda. Madres #2 are a more explicitly political movement (and not surprisingly, leftist). Madres 2 also aligns itself with organizations such trade unions. Hence, on a given Thursday there tends to be more people marching with Madres 2. For example striking workers will march with Madres 2, giving the mothers a stronger show of support, and for the strikers the support of Madres provides some extra legitimacy.
• Both Madres and Madres LF wear headscarves embroidered with the names of their children. The scarves are intended to represent diapers (and I suppose in some cases might be real cloth diapers and perhaps even in a few cases may be actual diapers worn by their children). The "diapers as scarves" symbol is intended to reinforce the on-going care the mothers provide.
• At the conclusion of every march the mothers (both groups) are usually (perhaps even always, though I hate to be so absolute) approached by journalists (print and television). The mothers are asked their opinions about a range of current affairs. Dedication to their cause has given the Madres a certain moral authority status in Argentine, even worldwide, society.
• I was introduced to one of the mothers at the end of the march. When she heard I am a professor from the US, she asked me in a very animated fashion, “Why haven’t you kicked George Bush’s butt out of your country? He is the biggest terrorist of them all”. (I’m trusting the translation here, though I doubt it’s very far off her intent).
• Just before leaving the Plaza “Tati”, one of the Madres LF leaders gave me a warm embrace, a huge smile and thanks for marching with her group. This was one of the great honors of my life.
Saturday, June 14, 2008
trying to get caught up...
Ok. I haven’t done a very good job of keeping up with the blog since coming to BsAs. Part of the reason is that the program really kept us busy (which is a good thing). Also most of my internet time has been “on the clock” so I’ve been limited to keeping up with email and some other basic tasks.
The formal part of the program is now over. I’m staying in BsAs a few more days just as a tourist. Tomorrow my South American tour enters its last stage with a three day swing through Uruguay.
Just like Chile, all the lectures were very good. A quick run-down:
• For the economic side of things we learned about MERCOSUR (the South American customs union with Argentina, Brazil, Paraguay and Uruguay) and factory takeovers by workers. This latter topic also involved a tour of such a factory (printing). During the financial crisis of 01-02 a number of factories were closed. Sometimes the workers would “take over” the factory and try to keep it running. These takeovers illustrate a different way of seeing property rights. Some of the factories certainly could have been sold and the proceeds given to the debtors (in the U.S. this certainly woud be the case). However when the public situation (unemployment, poverty) is teetering on chaotic, the Argentine government was not about to intervene in a circumstance where people are trying to keep their little corner of the economy going.
• There were also presentations on women’s issues, soccer and Argentine film. Given that Argentina is predominately Catholic country, and the church takes a very active role in society, there are clearly points of tension on issues dealing with reproductive choices. “Futbol” is a much-loved sport in Argentina and club affiliation (e.g. River Plate and Boca Juniors) provides an important sense of identity for many fans. Unfortunately one sector of the rabid fan base, “barras bravas” takes the affilation a bit too far; frequently resorting to violence with fans of other clubs. Argentine film is enjoying a bit of resurgence since the 01/02 crisis. We saw selections from two fims, “Los Rubios” and “Opus”. Los Rubios (the Blonds) represents a filmmaker’s attempt (very creative) to resolve the mysteries surrounding her parents’ disappearance during the military dictatorship. “Opus” is a documentary, again with a very creative format, looking at the public school issues in rural Argentina (I know, doesn’t sound so interesting, but this film uses a very unique narrative.).
• Of course there we also learned about the human rights issues involving kidnappings and tortures by the military government during the 76-83 dictatorship. I should devote another blog entry to this topic later. For now I’m going to include a picture of the “Madres de Plaza del Mayo” during their weekly protest march. Yes you’ll see a certain U.S. university professor in their with them.
The formal part of the program is now over. I’m staying in BsAs a few more days just as a tourist. Tomorrow my South American tour enters its last stage with a three day swing through Uruguay.
Just like Chile, all the lectures were very good. A quick run-down:
• For the economic side of things we learned about MERCOSUR (the South American customs union with Argentina, Brazil, Paraguay and Uruguay) and factory takeovers by workers. This latter topic also involved a tour of such a factory (printing). During the financial crisis of 01-02 a number of factories were closed. Sometimes the workers would “take over” the factory and try to keep it running. These takeovers illustrate a different way of seeing property rights. Some of the factories certainly could have been sold and the proceeds given to the debtors (in the U.S. this certainly woud be the case). However when the public situation (unemployment, poverty) is teetering on chaotic, the Argentine government was not about to intervene in a circumstance where people are trying to keep their little corner of the economy going.
• There were also presentations on women’s issues, soccer and Argentine film. Given that Argentina is predominately Catholic country, and the church takes a very active role in society, there are clearly points of tension on issues dealing with reproductive choices. “Futbol” is a much-loved sport in Argentina and club affiliation (e.g. River Plate and Boca Juniors) provides an important sense of identity for many fans. Unfortunately one sector of the rabid fan base, “barras bravas” takes the affilation a bit too far; frequently resorting to violence with fans of other clubs. Argentine film is enjoying a bit of resurgence since the 01/02 crisis. We saw selections from two fims, “Los Rubios” and “Opus”. Los Rubios (the Blonds) represents a filmmaker’s attempt (very creative) to resolve the mysteries surrounding her parents’ disappearance during the military dictatorship. “Opus” is a documentary, again with a very creative format, looking at the public school issues in rural Argentina (I know, doesn’t sound so interesting, but this film uses a very unique narrative.).
• Of course there we also learned about the human rights issues involving kidnappings and tortures by the military government during the 76-83 dictatorship. I should devote another blog entry to this topic later. For now I’m going to include a picture of the “Madres de Plaza del Mayo” during their weekly protest march. Yes you’ll see a certain U.S. university professor in their with them.
Wednesday, June 11, 2008
Late Night from BsAs
Hola (again) from BsAs!
after 4 days in this hotel I have just learned that they sell one hour internet cards for 6 pesos (about $2). So even though it's very late I am taking advantage of this opportunity. Of course I can just post reflections in their most cursory formats.
there are three days worth of experiences here
after 4 days in this hotel I have just learned that they sell one hour internet cards for 6 pesos (about $2). So even though it's very late I am taking advantage of this opportunity. Of course I can just post reflections in their most cursory formats.
there are three days worth of experiences here
Tuesday, June 10, 2008
from Buenos Aires
Hi all...
I've been in Buenos Aires for since Saturday evening and it's been a great experience. Sunday we had a bus tour of the main barrios of the city: Congresso, Monserrat, San Telmo, La Boca, Palermo, Retiro and Recolleta. Some great sites and many wonderful stories.
Today was another day devoted to human rights. We met one of the mothers of the Plaza de Mayo. She lost a son to the military dictorship in 1975. What's particularly interesting is how these mothers have come together and organized. Of course they're a bit of an international phenomenon at this point. Still their resolve, their commitment to the memory of their children is moving.
I've recorded some video footage which trys to capture the story a little more directly. Let's see if this works. It's just me doing a narrative, about 9 mins.
(ok... the video posting doesn't seem to work right now, I'll try again soon)
I've been in Buenos Aires for since Saturday evening and it's been a great experience. Sunday we had a bus tour of the main barrios of the city: Congresso, Monserrat, San Telmo, La Boca, Palermo, Retiro and Recolleta. Some great sites and many wonderful stories.
Today was another day devoted to human rights. We met one of the mothers of the Plaza de Mayo. She lost a son to the military dictorship in 1975. What's particularly interesting is how these mothers have come together and organized. Of course they're a bit of an international phenomenon at this point. Still their resolve, their commitment to the memory of their children is moving.
I've recorded some video footage which trys to capture the story a little more directly. Let's see if this works. It's just me doing a narrative, about 9 mins.
(ok... the video posting doesn't seem to work right now, I'll try again soon)
Friday, June 6, 2008
Link to Pictures from Chile (updated)
I have posted some pictures online, please try this link.
I'll be editing these pictures over time; providing descriptions for some, adding and perhaps even deleting a few. Even though some of these pictures aren't the best, when in doubt I'd prefer to include than exclude.
I'll be editing these pictures over time; providing descriptions for some, adding and perhaps even deleting a few. Even though some of these pictures aren't the best, when in doubt I'd prefer to include than exclude.
Thursday, June 5, 2008
Human Rights...
What a day...
we started with an excellent lecture from a human rights lawyer here in Chile. Very insightful perspective on pre-dictatorship polarization in society, the coup itself, then the introduction of a systemic torture apparatus. That lecture was followed by a tour of the ¨park of peace¨, a former torture center, that was led by a torture survivor. Very powerful stuff. A valuable experience but left us all (i think i can safely say all of us, or nearly so) exhausted.
tomorrow we return to the relative banality of trade policies and economic integration in South America.
then it´s on to Buenos Aires.
we started with an excellent lecture from a human rights lawyer here in Chile. Very insightful perspective on pre-dictatorship polarization in society, the coup itself, then the introduction of a systemic torture apparatus. That lecture was followed by a tour of the ¨park of peace¨, a former torture center, that was led by a torture survivor. Very powerful stuff. A valuable experience but left us all (i think i can safely say all of us, or nearly so) exhausted.
tomorrow we return to the relative banality of trade policies and economic integration in South America.
then it´s on to Buenos Aires.
Wednesday, June 4, 2008
on snails and avocados
Good lecture this morning from a woman from the federal trade office on Chile´s trade policies since 1990 (the end of the dictorship). Apparently free trade works for a ¨an open market of 15 million people at the end of the world¨. (her words)
Then we headed north about 90 minutes to an agricultural area.
{it´s really winter now. very chilly and raining all day. so it would have been nice to have some sun and a little warmth, but that´s the southern cone in June. }
We visited two farms. The first raised snails primarily for export to France. Over a million of these things on a very small plot of land. Very interesting process. Apparently they´re expecting great things, like snail consumption to rise since it´s high in protein and low in fat. So get ready to start eating more snails.
The second farm produces flowers and avocados. Also an interesting set of processes. I have now seen where guacamole really comes from.
Long bus ride back to the city. Terrible traffic. Also the truckers here are on strike, more on that later.
adios for now.
Then we headed north about 90 minutes to an agricultural area.
{it´s really winter now. very chilly and raining all day. so it would have been nice to have some sun and a little warmth, but that´s the southern cone in June. }
We visited two farms. The first raised snails primarily for export to France. Over a million of these things on a very small plot of land. Very interesting process. Apparently they´re expecting great things, like snail consumption to rise since it´s high in protein and low in fat. So get ready to start eating more snails.
The second farm produces flowers and avocados. Also an interesting set of processes. I have now seen where guacamole really comes from.
Long bus ride back to the city. Terrible traffic. Also the truckers here are on strike, more on that later.
adios for now.
Tuesday, June 3, 2008
from Santiago
Big city time. Plus the official program is underway so the heavy lifting has begun.
First thing, I´m having to chase down internet kiosks and cafes in the Provencia (sic¿) neighborhood of Santiago. There are two free computers in the hotel, but they are very slow. You can get wireless, for $10-day, and I¨m too cheap to make a daily diet for that. So for now it´s strange little places that charge 50 cents for 15 minutes.
I´m looking forward to uploading some pics soon.
Right now I´ll briefly comment on the Allende- Pinochet episode. There´s been some attention given to that in our lectures, plus we visited the famous palace, La Moneda, where in 1973 the coup took place and Allende ¨committed suicide¨ (the official story, even now, though I sorta have my doubts).
I was a young man at the time and I should be able to say I remember all that. But like most young men, I wasn´t paying close attention to global affairs.
Anyway, I´ve found myself oddly (i think so) moved by this piece of history, how it happened and what followed. I¨m also interested in learning more how this nation ¨moves on¨. Later this week we will visit one of the sites where opponents of the military government were tortured.
It´s odd to say I¨m looking forward to that... maybe just very curious.
Last item of the dia, the Andes are absolutely spectacular!
First thing, I´m having to chase down internet kiosks and cafes in the Provencia (sic¿) neighborhood of Santiago. There are two free computers in the hotel, but they are very slow. You can get wireless, for $10-day, and I¨m too cheap to make a daily diet for that. So for now it´s strange little places that charge 50 cents for 15 minutes.
I´m looking forward to uploading some pics soon.
Right now I´ll briefly comment on the Allende- Pinochet episode. There´s been some attention given to that in our lectures, plus we visited the famous palace, La Moneda, where in 1973 the coup took place and Allende ¨committed suicide¨ (the official story, even now, though I sorta have my doubts).
I was a young man at the time and I should be able to say I remember all that. But like most young men, I wasn´t paying close attention to global affairs.
Anyway, I´ve found myself oddly (i think so) moved by this piece of history, how it happened and what followed. I¨m also interested in learning more how this nation ¨moves on¨. Later this week we will visit one of the sites where opponents of the military government were tortured.
It´s odd to say I¨m looking forward to that... maybe just very curious.
Last item of the dia, the Andes are absolutely spectacular!
Sunday, June 1, 2008
Hola from Valparaiso
A quick note that I arrived in Chile yesterday despite American Airlines best attempts to keep me from getting here (actually we were delayed only 90mins, but it seemed much longer).
it is chilly here, but of course, it is winter.
The computer in this grand old house (converted mansion) of a hotel is old, very slow and with a spanish keyboard, so this post will be mercifully short.
Tomorrow it is back to Santiago and the beginning of the CIEE program.
be well all
it is chilly here, but of course, it is winter.
The computer in this grand old house (converted mansion) of a hotel is old, very slow and with a spanish keyboard, so this post will be mercifully short.
Tomorrow it is back to Santiago and the beginning of the CIEE program.
be well all
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