Tuesday, May 19, 2009

Getting around in P.C.

Almost anyone who visits Panama City will comment on the traffic.

Without question, by U.S. standards it is appears "crazy". Though I'm not sure it's any crazier than what I hear about other parts of the developing world (India, Egypt, China, etc.)

It is true the streets are frequently thick with cars and things can move slowly (though in my experience no city is more clogged than Sao Paulo). Traffic signs/signals are sometimes obeyed/sometimes not. I'll give the drivers here credit, at least they slow down for stop signs.

Cars do just pull out into traffic, apparently counting on other drivers' sense of self-preservation not to cause an accident.

But what makes Panama City traffic irksome for most U.S. visitors is how loud it is. This is due principally to: loud vehicles themselves (engines, brakes, etc.) and the frequent use of the horn. The horn is an essential part of every car in Panama and must be used (so it seems) once per block. Reasons to use the horn can vary: 1. for men to alert any woman within 100 meters of their presence 2. to inform other drivers you have no sense of self-preservation 3. for taxis (a common form of transportation) to pick up fares, i.e. all pedestrians are potential customers and are to be informed of a taxi's availibility with a sturdy beep, 4. lacking of these three, as a test to ensure the horn is ready and in working condition.

Those who know me at least semi-well know that back in Towson I live a short distance from the university. My walk is a very pleasant 20 minutes. Here in Panama City my hotel is barely 15 minutes from the university. Do I walk? Sometimes. Here's what discourages people from walking more frequently:

1. it is hot. Ten minutes on the street and you're soaked.
2. crossing the street is an adventure. "Right of way" is something most Panamanian drivers seem to consider a challenge. And what's the point of yielding to a pedestrian?
3. the sidewalks and curbs here are their own special challenge. Many walkways are obstacle courses of cracks, holes and ledges. (for the record, this is how I wrenched my knee here last January.)

In all honesty Panama City is not a beautiful city. It's not particularly ugly, it just isn't beautiful. There are parts that are rather nice, for instance the "Causeway" is a long and lovely promenade with great ocean breezes and a good water view with the city skyline. "Casco Viejo" the old colonial quarter has some real charm. And the "Parque Metropolitano" just inside the city limits on the north side is a jem of a preserved habitat. All that said, there's not nearly enough green space in this city. There are quite a few empty lots that could be, but they are. This is perhaps understandable because this is still a country with considerable needs and relatively meager resources. If I were mayor and could put my money into schools, clinics, public safety, housing or landscaping I think I know which one would receive the lowest priority.

Finally there are the "Diablo Rojas", the privately-owned former school buses that serve as the city's public transportation system. As I understand it they are licensed and give a route of sorts, as indicated by some color system. However drivers, working on incentive systems, may make changes along the way, such as backtracking to find more passengers. There are also a lot of dangerous moves the drivers make to reach the next bus stop before the competition. And of course there are claims that the buses themselves are poorly maintained. I've seen plenty of D.R.'s on the road. They're very colorful too, each one custom painted. But unless I had I guide I'd never ride one.

Maybe it's an experience I should have before I leave.

1 comment:

JOHN BUCK said...

Bill, Thanks for the updates! I love your description of the cab drivers! Keep the posts coming! Be well ...